A perennial favourite amongst a dedicated core of enthusiasts who return regularly most seasons, Meribel has a well-deserved reputation for offering a fabulous range of great skiing and snowboarding terrain, and for being one of the liveliest resorts in the Alps.
A longstanding and commendable policy of restricting the styling of most construction projects to maintain the traditional wood-clad, stone-tiled, chalet-style of architecture typical of this region, has resulted in Meribel being one of the more attractive resorts of its size in the French Alps. The wooded setting further enhances the effect and lends Meribel a pleasant Alpine village ambiance, despite the fact that it's actually a purpose-built ski resort.
NB: not to be confused with Meribel-Village or Meribel-Mottatet, the former a tiny satellite hamlet which lies to the north-east and which has just one lift- and piste-link with the Altiport ski sector above the actual main resort of Meribel, and the latter a more functional-looking separate resort development at the head of the valley 3 km beyond Meribel.
MOUNTAIN
Located in the central valley of the huge Three Valleys ski domain, Meribel is a paradise for intermediates, entertaining for experts and great for snowboarders.
An amphitheatre of ridges and peaks sweeps round from above the Western side of the resort and curls around the head of the valley above Mottaret to run all the way above the Eastern flanks of Meribel; slope users are therefore able to follow the sun and best snow conditions around the valley throughout the day, all accessible via an extensive network of mostly fast declutchable chairlifts and recently upgraded gondolas.
Progressive novices don't really need to leave this local ski area, but most visitors are attracted to Meribel by the enormous scale of the full Three Valleys domain: there are half-a-dozen inter-valley link points on the Eastern ridges, linking into the Belleville Valley towards Saint-Martin-de-Belleville, Les Menuires, Reberty and Val Thorens; to the West there are a couple of cross-ridge link points into the St-Bons Valley, which houses the equally extensive, internationally renowned ski resorts of Courchevel and La Tania.
Beginners may find the scale and pace of the principal Meribel slopes a bit too daunting, but the scenic parkland-like Altiport sector at the uppermost suburb of Meribel has gently rolling wide pistes which are perfect for learners. For more experienced skiers and riders, the Plattieres-Vallon sector above Mottaret, and the Tougnete sector on the Eastern slopes above Meribel, are the principal areas of focus in this valley: particularly noteworthy are the long sweeping snow-sure red pistes and terrific lift-served off-piste access off Mont du Vallon, as well as the excellent 'Moon Park' snowpark in the Arpasson area.
OFF-SLOPE AND APRES
Thanks to the gondola lifts serving both sides of the valley, non-skiers are able to join their skiing companions on the mountains at a fair number of mountain bars/restaurants and view points; there are also a number of way-marked walking routes that enable pedestrians to get out into the midst of the surrounding scenery. In town, the Olympic Centre near Meribel’s principal Chaudanne base area houses a full-sized ice rink, a spa and fitness suite, an indoor climbing wall and a swimming pool.
From mid-afternoon onwards, the volume of music rises and the crowds begin to gather at a number of popular piste-side and base-area bars, quickly building into one of the most animated apres-ski scenes in the Alps, for which Meribel is justly famous. Later on in the evening, most of the still-rocking nightlife is focused around the central Route de la Montée and Route du Centre area of Meribel, as well as in the suburb of Mussillon.
Despite the fact that the vast majority of Meribel's guests are hosted in catered accommodation, the number of eateries to choose from for dining out is fairly good, and covers a wide range of budgets and tastes.
Mountain
With north west facing slopes and an average January temperature of - 5°C Poiana Brasov has a good snow record with cover usually lasting from December through to March. Its lift system consists of two main cable cars and an open gondola along with eight draglifts providing uplift of 7,000 per hour so queues are kept to a minimum. The highest point is Postavarul at a height of 1828m/6000ft with stunning panoramic views of the Transylvanian Mountains. Most of the pistes are wide, wooded glades mostly suited to the novice and intermediates with plenty gentle slopes to boost confidence and improve on technique. Nursery areas on the lower slopes are floodlit well into the evening so keen beginners have even more time to practice. There is also a nursery area further up the mountain so beginners won't miss out on the spectacular scenery while they learn. The ski school has over 120 instructors, most of whom speak English and have a good reputation for their friendly helpfulness. At the end of every week theres an organised ski school dinner and awards presentations followed by entertainment from the instructors in a real party atmosphere. After a week's instruction complete beginners should be able to manage the blue run down from Cristianu Mare. The majority of the pistes are aimed at intermediates who have several long blue and red runs including a red which runs all the way from the summit of Cristianul Mare to the base of the mountain. Experts have two black runs including the tricky 3km Valea Lupului which can be very challenging depending on snow conditions. Cross-country skiers have a 3km prepared trail at the foot of the slopes.
Families
There is a kindergarten at the Gradinitá Hotel Ciucas where the minimum age accepted is 3 years. Children from 5 years and upwards can join the childrens' ski school. English is widely spoken in the ski school.
Eating Out
Romanian cuisine has many different inflluences and is a mixture of Hungarian, German, Turkish, Russian and Greek. Most of the dishes are meat based with pork tending to be the favourite meat, but beef and chicken are popular too. The Transylvanian soup, famous throughout Romania, is prepared with green peas, small slices of white ham, green garlic, tomatoes and parsley. They make excellent cake and this is a popular dessert especially baclava and sarailie, rich cake made with walnuts and syrup. Coliba Haiducilor in Poiana Brasov is well known throughout Europe for its typical Romanian delicacies. For a Romanian dinner by candle light, accompanied by gipsy music go to Sura Dacilor, they are well recommended and their baked apples are delicious. Vanatorul is another famous restaurant. The Outlaw Restaurant is very popular, in the style of an old hunting lodge with blazing coal fire huge joints of meat are brought to the table on flaming swords, the wild boar is excellent and served with a pungent local brew. A hearty Transylvanian welcome awaits you in the restaurants and bars. Indulge in typical Romanian hospitality and hot wine brandy at the Outlaws' Hut, tuck into wild boar meat at the Hunters' Lodge and the Dacian Feast with its delicious specialities and traditional Romanian folklore show. There is wine tasting, excellent food and a spectacular floorshow at the Carpathian Stag in Brasov. Or you may simply wish just to enjoy a cabaret show at a local nightclub or dance the night away in one of the discos.
Apres
The apres ski centres mainly around the local hotels and bars with traditional Romanian folk music evenings, gypsy music and cabaret shows. Many of the restaurants have lively floor shows and gypsy musicians. The Dacia restaurant is worth a visit to sample the wild boar. The Carpathian Stag in Brasov host a lively wine tasting evening in its ancient wine cellars followed by dinner and a folklore show. There are excursions to Bran Castle, home of the legendary Dracula and it is even possible to stay there for a night.
Boarding
The gentle slopes are ideal for beginners to master the basics of snowboarding or those wishing to improve on their technique but Poiana Brasov does not have a dedicated fun park and the more adventurous will have to rely on finding their own naturally formed jumps and bowls.
