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- Written by: Snow Magazine Staff
- Last Updated: 23 Oct 2026
Passo Tonale is a brilliant little resort in the Italian Alps which punches way above its size and weight in terms of the variety, quality, and altitude of the terrain on offer, especially given that the prices for everything (from accommodation, to liftpasses, to meals on the hill) remain incredibly reasonable.
Officially known as PontediLegno-Tonale, the resort consists of two main villages: the pretty, historic town of Ponte di Legno (or "wooden bridge") at 1,260m, and the more modern resort centre of Passo Tonale, built largely in the 60s and 70s, at 1800m.
The latter literally straddles the border between the provinces of Lombardy and Trentino. Passo means "pass" in Italian, and the Tonale Pass was one traditional crossing point between the two. The first structure up on the pass dates back to 1127, when monks built the San Bartolomeo refuge to offer shelter to passing travellers and traders.
"The mix of everything in such a small area makes Passo Tonale particularly good for family ski holidays or mixed ability groups"
And Ponte di Legno has a long history as a ski destination, having been recommended as "Italy's premier winter sports destination," by the country's Touring Club as early as 1912. During WWI, Trentino (then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire) and Lombardy found themselves on opposite sides, and there was fierce fighting on the pass—the evidence of which is clearly visible to this day.
The ski area has 100km of pistes, which doesn't sound massive, but the variety is impressive—with offering everything from tree lined forest runs, motorway wide cruisey blues, and serious high alpine terrain. The mix of everything in such a small area makes Passo Tonale a particularly good ski resort for family ski holidays or mixed ability groups. You can go your separate ways in teh morning, ski wildly different terrain, and still meet up for lunch with relative ease.
Because the top lift reaches 3,000m, Passo Tonale is also an excellent, snowsure option for early and late season ski holidays. Skiing on the Presena Glacier often starts in November and carries on into May, (although opening dates and conditions depend on the weather). Given all these advantages, it's no surprise that Passo Tonale is a fixture on our list of the Best Ski Resorts in Italy.
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Passo Tonale – Ski Map & Pistes:
The ski area encompasses four distinct sectors: Ponte di Legno, Temù, Passo Tonale and the Presena Glacier, all of which are linked by lifts. The Passo Tonale sector, on one side of the East-West pass, offers open slopes that are mostly south-facing, making it particularly welcoming for beginners and intermediates. You'll find ski school meeting points, dedicated learning areas and the new Fantaski kids zone here.
The Presena sector encompasses all the terrain to the south of the pass. The slopes here are north facing, higher, and in various places considerably steeper. If you're after epic mountain views and glacier skiing above 2,500m, this is where to come.
"If you're after epic mountain views and glacier skiing above 2,500m, this is where to come"
Ponte di Legno and Temù bring a more traditional Alpine feel, with runs descending through pine forests. Strong intermediates will enjoy the longer red pistes. The resort’s greatest strength is its altitude. Almost whatever time of winter you visit, you'll find decent conditions up on the Presena glacier, even when lower slopes are becoming marginal.
Passo Tonale – Off-Piste, Ski Touring & Backcountry:
Passo Tonale's lift system may not be massive, but it offers access to some seriously epic off-piste runs. The highlight of these is the Sgualdrina, an 1,800m-long descent into a wide open, high-altitude valley that's easily accessible by dropping down underneath the top Presena Glacier gondola, and turning skier's right.
It starts with either an open powder field or a narrow couloir, drops through some fun terrain filled with rock drop options and banks to slash, and finishes in a tunnel blasted through the rock by Austrian soldiers during WWI—proper adventure skiing.
"It starts with an open powder field and finishes in a tunnel blasted through the rock by Austrian soldiers during WWI—proper adventure skiing"
Another classic is the Canale del Diavolo, or "the devil's couloir"—a glory line visible from the lift which is amazing in good snow. And if you're prepared to stick skins to your skis and go touring, you can drop off the back of the top lift towards the Adamello Glacier—the largest in Italy—where the options are almost endless. The route from the Passo Pisgana at 2,953, down the Pisgana Glacier and all the way to the Sozzine lift in Ponte di Legno, at 1,300m, is another classic.
As always, if venturing off piste, make sure you book a guide who knows the terrain and snow conditions, make sure you carry avalanche rescue kit, and make sure you know how to use it.
Passo Tonale – Restaurants, Bars & The Village:
PontediLegno-Tonale's the two main bases have distinct personalities. Ponte di Legno is the more characterful choice, with a traditional town centre, independent shops, cafés and restaurants. Passo Tonale is more purpose-built and convenient for those who want to stay close to the slopes.
Local cooking draws on the food traditions of Lombardy and Trentino, with hearty mountain dishes featuring plenty of polenta, local cheeses, and cured meats. Mountain huts provide scenic lunch stops, while the villages offer plenty of options for a more leisurely evening meal.
Brits used to skiing in France will be pleased with the prices, which compare very favourably. You can get a large plate of pasta on the hill for around 12 or 13 euros, and a tagliata di manzo steak for 18.
Tonale isn't wild when it comes to après ski—there's no Folie Douce here. But there are a few places which will pump out tunes, and the resort's proximity to Milan means that during busy periods around Christmas, New Year, and the closing season parties, the atmosphere can be pretty pumping.
The resort is also home to Italy's first sled-dog school, founded in 1985 by Armen Khatchikian, the first Italian ever to complete the 1,800km-long Iditarod race across Alaska. He's a proper character, and while he doesn't do bog standard tourist rides, the two-hour mushing lessons he does offer give you a far richer experience.
Passo Tonale – Ski Hire
Ski hire is well catered for across the resort, with rental shops in Ponte di Legno and Passo Tonale offering equipment for adults and children, from beginner packages to performance piste skis and snowboards.
For spring trips, it is worth checking the latest snow and weather conditions before deciding which equipment to rent, particularly if you plan to spend most of your time on the glacier.
Passo Tonale – Ski School
The ski area is well suited to learners, with dedicated beginner terrain, a range of blue and red pistes and plenty of room to progress. Passo Tonale is particularly convenient for first-timers, while more experienced skiers can use lessons to develop their technique on the longer and steeper runs.
Children and families are well catered for, and the variety of terrain makes it possible for different ability levels to enjoy the same holiday without everyone needing to ski the same runs.
