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- Written by: Roger Fulton
When it comes to winter sports, one thing matters more than any other: snow. Obertauern, sitting at an altitude of 1,740m, 90km south of Salzburg, has plenty of it. In fact, this largely unsung hero of the Austrian Alps, is actually Austria’s snowiest winter sports destination, with its magnificent mountain landscapes blanketed in snow from November to early May.
That’s not opinion, that’s just fact. A scientific snow study compared long-term snow measurements from various Austrian winter sports destination. Obertauern achieved an average maximum snow depth of 264cm. Weather patterns combined with its high altitude ensure a particularly high level of snow reliability.
Its ski area spans around 100km of pistes and extends up to 2,313m. Some 61km of the slopes are classified blue, 35km red and 4km black. But with plenty of off-piste terrain on top there’s enjoyment and challenge for all levels and abilities.
Another distinctive feature here is the layout of the mountains surrounding Obertauern: they create a bowl-like setting around the village. This means there are slopes in every direction, so you can even plan your skiing so that you spend the whole day on sunny slopes. The village centre is never far away, and piste signposts ensure easy navigation throughout the entire ski area.
But what sets Obertauern apart beyond the slopes is its relaxed atmosphere and lively après -ski culture. Anyone staying at one of the predominantly family-run hotels can expect a warm welcome. The same applies to the many restaurants and bars, which is why families with children are especially drawn to Obertauern.
So, it’s high, it’s snowsure, there are slopes for everyone and it’s friendly. But Obertauern’s other great claim to fame is a little more esoteric! Back in March 1965, the resort welcomed a band you may have heard of – the Beatles – who were making their second film ‘Help’. After filming against the backdrop of Obertauern’s snow-capped mountains, the group also gave an impromptu concert at the former Hotel Marietta, which remains their only performance in Austria to this day.
Today, three monuments commemorate those days: a statue of The Beatles on the slope by the Kirchbühel lift, a replica of their grand piano at the Grünwald-Kopfbahn mountain station, and four statues of the musicians in front of the Hotel Edelweiss. Be sure to make time to visit these Beatles-themed monuments, which make popular backdrops for souvenir photos while keeping alive the memory of Obertauern’s contribution to musical history.
Wondering how to squeeze everything into one holiday? Take a look at our itinerary for some trip inspo…
Day 1: Get to know Obertauern
One of Obertauern’s major plusses is that so much of the village’s accommodation is ski-in, ski-out, making getting started nice and easy. Obertauern’s 26 cable cars and ski lifts around the village form a compact ski circuit. Eleven access points prevent long queues at the lifts and make access to the ski area convenient and quick.
If you’re new to this skiing lark, it’s off to ski school for you or your kids. Obertauern has a wide range of ski and snowboard schools, from traditional ski courses for beginners and advanced skiers to freeride programmes. Cross-country skiers will also find the Gnadenalm Cross-Country Ski School a great place to start.
If you are already ski-ready, the best way to get orientated is to ‘ski the Tauernrunde’. This circuit connects all access points, letting you explore the entire ski area on skis in two directions. The red Tauernrunde runs clockwise, and the green one goes anti-clockwise, linking the various areas of the ski resort.
Don't miss: Your first panoramic view across the Obertauern bowl.
Day 2: Gamsleiten day
This is definitely one for experienced skiers. Head straight for Obertauern’s highest point at 2,313m, to take on the ultimate challenge for anyone seeking an extra thrill in Obertauern – the Gamsleiten 2. Even the steep ascent on the nostalgic two-seater chairlift is an experience in itself, as you sit face-to-face with the mountain you are about to ski down.
As one of Europe’s steepest black runs, the Gamsleiten 2 (or Piste 26a) commands a healthy respect even from the most experienced skiers and snowboarders. Due to weather conditions, the run cannot be regularly groomed, meaning much of the time you’ll encounter an incredibly intimidating mogul wall.
Standing at the top, the slope drops away so sharply that you can barely see the first several metres of the piste beneath your tips. And because the pitch is so severe, you cannot casually cruise down. Instead, you have to commit to tight, rhythmic turns right in the troughs of huge moguls.
Don’t miss: You can either fortify yourself for the challenge or reward yourself afterwards with a stop at one of Obertauern's many cosy ski huts. You'll find warming, homemade Austrian specialties like cheese dumplings, schnitzel, and snack platters.
Day 3: Cruising the blues
Obertauern has some glorious terrain for early intermediates, and a day cruising the blues is never a day wasted. More than half of the resort’s piste network is graded blue, meaning you can easily spend your whole trip cruising gentle, wide slopes without constantly being forced onto difficult terrain. Seekarspitz, Hundskogel and Plattenkar, especially, offer wide, enjoyable pistes ideal for intermediates.
In warmer weather some of the blue runs can get soft as the day wears on, so it’s a good idea to get plenty of runs under your skis early.
Don’t miss: Stop for Kaiserschmarrn on a sunny terrace, right on the slopes.
Day 4: Off-piste & après ski
If you’re an advanced skier, consider a guide for off-piste skiing to really make the most of Obertauern’s outstanding ski terrain.
The combination of open terrain away from the pistes and fantastic natural snow conditions gets freeriders and other deep-snow enthusiasts buzzing. Altitude is one advantage; another is the orientation of the slopes. Because the surrounding mountains form a bowl-like shape, Obertauern offers slopes facing in every direction. Suppose you want to enjoy the sun first thing in the morning, head to the east-facing slopes. If you want to be waist-deep in powder until the very end of the day, stick to the north-facing runs.
The information boards at the freeride checkpoints near the Hochalmbahn and Kringsalmbahn mountain stations help you choose the right route, and provide information such as the current avalanche warning level, temperature and snow depths, dangerous slope exposures and checkpoints for avalanche transceivers. The local ski schools also offer comprehensive freeride courses.
Don’t miss: Fresh tracks followed by Austrian après-ski. Obertauern is famous for its vibrant apres-ski: the ‘après-ski mile’ features no less than 25 ski lodges lined up just waiting for you to stop by.
Day 5: Foodie day
Sooner or later, when hunger strikes you will find yourself wondering: what kind of culinary experiences does Obertauern offer?
Some 50 mountain lodges and restaurants serve a diverse range of dishes from the Salzburg region. Regional produce is highly valued here, and local specialities feature on the menus alongside exceptional gourmet creations. Whether it’s traditional Kasnock’n, hearty Frittatensuppe, tasty yeast dumplings, or the unmissable Kaiserschmarrn shredded pancakes, Obertauern’s cuisine is honest and down-to-earth, imaginative and varied, yet always authentic.
Our tip is to enjoy a morning’s ski then make time for a long, relaxing daytime lunch.
Don’t miss: try something different: take the chance to go night skiing - available Mondays and Thursdays from the Edelweissbahn.
Day 6: Obertauern’s greatest hits
Go back and relive your favourite runs from the week! Strong skiers can return to Gamsleiten 2; intermediates can revisit Seekarspitz, Hundskogel or Plattenkar. Later, or alternatively, if you do feel skied out, try combining your skis with something a bit different, with one of Obertauern’s many other winter activities.
Options include snow-biking, which involves hurtling down snow-covered slopes on two runners rather than skis, snowkiting, ski touring and cross-country skiing. You can also opt for a snowshoe walk or winter hike to explore the winter landscape away from the hustle and bustle of alpine skiing or take a ride round Obertauern in a horse-drawn sleigh.
Still in a sporting mood? Try laser biathlon at the Gnadenalm, tobogganing or even airboarding, where you whizz down a slope on a hi-tech cushion!
Don’t miss: Your favourite run of the week one last time and find some time to soak in the breathtaking mountain vistas.
Getting to Obertauern
Obertauern lies in the heart of central Austria’s SalzburgerLand. Getting there is usually via Salzburg Airport, just 90km away, with a transfer time of 75 mins. Eurowings operate flights from many UK airports.
For more info about taking a family ski holiday in Obertauern, go to obertauern.com
