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There are times when Chat GPT seems omniscient—able to answer any question in an instant. But I would argue when it comes to booking your next ski holiday, there are plenty of things it can't tell you. Sure, it can scrape TripAdvisor and Google for restaurant reviews, but can it really capture a café's vibe? Or tell you whether a cover band playing après classics is worth a listen? And what about directing you to secret, off-piste powder stashes? I think not.
With that in mind, when we set about compiling a guide to Nendaz, we thought we’d ask real human beings for their advice. Nendaz is one of the resorts that makes up the vast, 4 Vallées area, alongside Verbier, La Tzoumaz, Veysonnaz and Thyon. Nendaz sits between Verbier and Veysonnaz, and is 8km down the mountain from Siviez and Thyon. The modern resort centre - a mix of mainly chalets, apartments and small hotels - is just up the road from Haute Nendaz, a rustic hamlet of old buildings and a lovely baroque chapel.
As well as its 400km of pistes, the resort is particularly well-known for its freeriding—with seven marked and patrolled off-piste routes offering excellent riding. But where do locals go to ski when the obvious spots get tracked out? Where do they eat, drink coffee in the mornings, or dance at après? Ski instructor Ami Amacker reveals all.
Introducing Amandus Amacker
Amandus Amacker, the longest-serving ski instructor at the Ecole Suisse de Ski in Nendaz, is universally known as ‘Ami’. He claims it’s just because it’s easier to pronounce, but ask his friends or clients and they’ll tell you it’s because he’s everyone’s meilleur ami. [that's "best friend" in French for those whose GCSEs were too long ago to remember - ed.]
Originally from the German-speaking part of the Valais, he moved to Nendaz more than four decades ago, and never left. His grown-up son, Richard is now fluent in three languages, and a professional skier. Here, Ami senior explains why Nendaz had him hooked from day one.
When was the first time you visited Nendaz? And what were your first impressions? I first came here in 1975, so a very long time ago—I was still young [laughs]. I was doing some work building houses, but my dream was to teach skiing. I came here to work on a house and looked around and said: ‘Okay, here’s a nice place, maybe next winter I’ll try to come back’. In 1976, I came back and they accepted me on the instructor course. Of course, Nendaz was very different back then. When I started, there were just 17 ski teachers in the Ecole Suisse de Ski here, and after ten years that had grown to 40 or 45. And then, in the early 80s they connected everything with Verbier and the other resorts [Bruson, La Tzoumaz, Nendaz, Veysonnaz and Thyon] to create the 4 Vallées.
You’ve lived here for nearly 50 years. What is it you love the most about it now? The people in Nendaz have always been very open and welcoming. I also like the way you have people coming from all over the world, all these different cultures. I get to teach people from all over Europe, from America, that’s just fantastisch. And naturally the ski area—that’s the greatest.
What makes the ski area so great? Well, I am a little bit of—how do you call it—a patriot? [Laughs]. I think it’s the best ski area in Switzerland. Of course, there are others that are good too, but I know everything so well here, so when the weather is good I go perhaps to one side, or when it’s bad, I change and go to the other.
So where do you go when the weather is good? When there’s fresh powder for example? Plan-du-Fou / Prarion is a really good freeride area. It’s a massive bowl, so you can start in the morning on one side, and then work your way around the bowl as the sun moves, to make sure you’re always catching the snow at the perfect temperature. Lots of Nendaz is good for freeriding though, because we have a lot of north-facing slopes, which helps the snow stay cold and softer for longer.
Where’s the best run for when the weather’s bad? I think the Alpage piste, because you are among the trees, and so the visibility on the ground is much better than if you go higher up. It’s really hard to ski when you can’t see anything [laughs] but on the Alpage you can see even when the visibility is bad.
Nendaz in numbers
Ski area: 410km
Altitude range: 1,371m - 3,300m
Resort height: 1,400m
Where to stay in Nendaz
The brand new MAD Retreat Hotel is aimed at the health-conscious travellers who want their own, secluded getaway on the slopes. The hotel is made up of 25 separate, stylishly-appointed chalets, with communal areas for dining, hanging out and the daily wellness activities. There's a built-in spa, of course, and the delicious vegetarian food is included.
Elsewhere, its sister property, the MAD Mount Hotel combines minimalist, modern interiors with a welcoming bar and excellent spa facilities.
Where to eat in Nendaz
“My favourite place for lunch is Combatseline,” says Ami. “My friend is the boss there, the food is always varied, and really good. And don’t forget the penché - it’s something special.”
Restaurant Le Hameau de Tortin
Tortin's new restaurant is located right at the bottom of the Freetrack des Gentianes. This brand-new complex can accommodate up to 200 customers indoors and 200 outdoors in a beautiful alpine setting. Le Hameau de Tortin offers typical regional dishes made from local ingredients, available on the menu or as self-service options
Where to après in Nendaz
Yetibar
With direct access from the Tortin ski slope, the Yetibar is the ideal place for a well-deserved après-ski after a great day's skiing!
Edelweiss
The Edelweiss bar, at the foot of the Tracouet ski slope, hosts live concerts and, of course, has its not-to-be-missed 'Happy hour'.
Must-do’s in Nendaz
The Mont Fort is quite literally the pinnacle of what Nendaz has to offer. There's a recently-built, viewing platform offering incredible 360 degree views of the mountain. There's an impressive black slope down from it, and perhaps best of all there's the world's highest zipline. The Mont4Zipline takes anyone who dares 1.4km across the Tortin Glacier, reaching a top speed of over 100km per hour!
Like to head off-piste? Ski the Freetrack Col des Gentianes (freeriding on a secured area in Nendaz).
Indulge in some ski touring with the five Touring Tracks, each tailored to a different level, for easy progression.
For families, there’s the Tortin toboggan run, a challenging descent of 300m over a 2.2km course.
Chill and unwind at the Spa des Bisses with its suite of saunas, two pools, indoor Jacuzzi, fitness centre and seven treatment rooms.
This article was funded by Valais/Wallis Promotion and Switzerland Tourism. Go to nendaz.ch for more information about this fantastic ski area and for great offers, visit the Valais Online Shop.
