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Baqueira Beret is a ski resort fit for a king – literally – being the resort of choice for the Spanish royal family who have their own winter home here.
It lies at the head of the beautiful Val d'Aran, near Vielha, in the Spanish Pyrenees. The village, tastefully purpose-built in wood and stone rather than concrete, is on the main road leading up to the high Bonaigua Pass. Its location provides a unique Atlantic climate guaranteeing high quality snow conditions, just the right amount of sunshine and, due to its southerly latitude, an hour's more daylight than the Alps.
Skiing in Baqueira Beret is as extensive as it is varied, offering runs for every level from easy greens, wide cruisy blues and reds, difficult black runs, superb off-piste powder, near-vertical couloirs and meaty mogul runs. It’s a resort that also offers some serious distance from one end of the resort to the other. So, what better than a ski safari to see what’s what. This one’s aimed at intermediate skiers happiest on blues with some reds, but you’ll often find cheeky black run alternatives along the way.
Morning: Baqueira to Beret
Make it an early start – you’ve got a lot to ski! Your exhilarating ‘tour’ of Baqueira Beret ski resort begins with a leisurely ride up the main Baqueira bubble from the base station to the edge of the main Bosque plateau where you’ll find the nursery slopes and onward lifts.
If you need to warm up, take a few turns on the green Era Coma or blue Era Cabana run from the Cabana lift, otherwise drift straight across to the Pla Baqueira chairlift to climb up into the main network of wide Baqueira blues and reds that characterise this sector. The resort’s original, busiest and still many people’s favourite simply because of the ease of access, the Baqueira sector has the most runs — a total of 41 runs covering 45km.
We suggest a smooth ski down the flowing Mirador red run to the foot of the Mirador chair for your next ascent. Mirador means ‘viewpoint’ in Spanish, and from both lift and run you’ll get sweeping views across the Naut Aran valley.
From the top, take the blue Cara Nord piste down to Orri which marks the crossover point into the Beret sector. This piste also runs parallel to the famous Luis Arias and Pasarells black diamond runs.
From Orri, head up the Jesus Serra chair and take your pick from four Beret blue runs; they all merge at the bottom in the Beret bowl. Alternatively, ski down the Dera Reina blue piste, which winds through larch forests and open meadows. The name translates to ‘Queen’s slope’, a tribute to Spanish royalty who have long frequented the resort.
The Beret sector is the most laid-back and family-friendly, and its peaceful environment is down to the expansiveness of its terrain. Over an incredible 70km of skiable area, skiers can enjoy a total of 37 pistes, including 20 blues and 12 reds. Its soft slopes and spacious runs are ideal for beginners, families and children, and it includes areas dedicated entirely to teaching winter sports.
We suggest going straight on to the Blanhiblar chair and maybe a coffee stop on the Blanhiblar terrace before tackling the Costarjas draglift up to the Tuc de Costarjas (2,338m) at the furthest edge of the resort. At this summit, pause to take in the 360° views of the Pyrenean peaks and the glacial-carved landscapes that stretch toward France. You’ll really feel the tranquility here, with a variety of uncrowded red and blue intermediate pistes ready to take you back to the Beret bowl.
Time for lunch?
From the bowl head up the Dera Reina chair where you’ve got a choice. If you’re hungry or time’s getting on, head straight down the blue Ta Baqueira 1 to Orri for lunch at the renowned Moët Winter Lounge, a stylish alpine restaurant and après hotspot, cozy chic interiors, fire pits, and panoramic views across the Montgarri plains.
If you’ve made speedy progress, however, you might like to detour halfway down and take the Saumet and Baciver draglifts up into the heart of the small but challenging Baciver sector. Baciver might have just been a footnote were it not for the 100m of slope that has been added to the top of the resort, bringing it to a maximum height of 2,610m. This mainly red-run area with terrain that was once only accessible by big-mountain skiers has a strong character and features views of the massive walls of the Cara Nord de Baqueira. Sharpen your appetite before heading down Eth Coret red or even tackling one of the two black runs here, as you make your way to the Moët Winter Lounge.
This being Spain, you can expect to try something a little different from the usual Alpine staples, such as seared tuna, or grilled Iberian pork - tender, juicy and served with rustic potatoes. Pair these with a glass of Moët & Chandon or a local Viña Ardanza Rioja red.
Afternoon: Bonaigua beckons
After lunch, make your way back to Baqueira via the easy blue Dera Cascada. Once at the main hub, head toward the Bonaigua bubble and chair back up as you did earlier. At the top, cruise down the red-into-blue Ta Argulls piste to catch the Argulls chair towards Bonaigua, then it’s either the long Bonaigua blue or its red ‘Cresta’ alternative all the way down to the bottom. The Bonaigua sector is all about endless runs and long descents with routes that put the terrain somewhere between challenging and fun.
The Port de la Bonaigua (2,072m) offers a majestic viewpoint: snow-draped ridges roll out beneath you while, on clear days, you can see into the neighbouring Pallars Sobirà region. This point marks the natural divide between Atlantic and Mediterranean watersheds.
One last stop…
Just above the Bonaigua base area, make a pit stop at Refugi San Miguel Bonaigua, a rustic wooden lodge serving traditional mountain fare. We recommend the Aranese Stew, a hearty soup made from meats, pulses, and vegetables, and the Crema catalana, a creamy dessert with a caramelised sugar top, perfect after a cold day. Warm up by the fireplace with a local craft beer or a cup of hot chocolate made thick in the Spanish style.
Final runs
As the sun dips lower, ride the TSD Bonaigua back up and descend through Argulls and up the Solei chair for the final run down the blue Vista Ruda back into Baqueira. Golden hour paints the mountains in rich hues, making this final descent one to savour.
Summary
Total Duration: Full day (approx. 9:30am - 4:30pm).
Skill Level: Intermediate with optional advanced pistes.
Highlights: Royal pistes, glacial panoramas, local gourmet stops.
Why Go: This is Pyrenean skiing at its most soulful — where world-class terrain meets rich culture and cuisine.
Baqueira-Beret-Bonaigua is not just a ski tour; it's a sensory journey through history, gastronomy, and natural beauty. And it’s only the start. Come for the snow, stay for the soul. To find out more about skiing this beautiful destination, go to baqueira.com
