As we approach the gondola for the first runs of our trip, we are forced to divert around a lady who is hoovering the pavement outside her designer clothes store. Somewhat bleary-eyed after an early flight, I find myself wondering if I’m hallucinating.
I’m in Megève for a whistlestop trip with two other dads. Our busy lives dictate that any trips without the family must be worth it and, crucially, short. After a 4AM departure from our Cotswolds base and an unfathomably smooth journey, we encounter the strange hoovering scene just eight hours later. It is late March (the final week of Megève’s season, in fact), the sun is shining, and the lower slopes of the resort are already revealing the golf courses that have been hidden under a blanket of snow for the past few months. But we aren’t here to ski all day, or chase powder runs in the backcountry—this trip is about relaxation, good food and wine and taking things slowly.
When in Rome
Our hotel, Les Fermes du Marie, could not be a better base for some intense and restorative pampering. Located ten minutes’ walk from the village, its structure is made up of beams and stones taken from the ruins of old alpine farmhouses in the mountains above Megève, which were numbered and meticulously put back together piece by piece. Entering through a huge medieval-looking door, you immediately feel like this could be an epic private chalet rather than a hotel. The entrance balcony overlooks a spectacular restaurant, which gives way to a nicely-lit terrace, an outdoor jacuzzi, and the Pure Altitude spa with its 13 treatment rooms beyond. The bedrooms are beautifully-constructed, with the ancient timbers on show throughout.
Despite the amazing décor, it’s the staff who stand out. Or quite the opposite in-fact. Somehow, they are invisible until the moment you need them, friendly and attentive but never intrusive. The concierge will map you out a route for the day while your lift passes are being arranged by reception, and another team member will load your skis into the car ready for you to be dropped off at the lift station—this is a different world.
Situated near the Swiss and Italian borders, within the Mont Blanc Massif, Megève was the brainchild of Baroness Noémie de Rothschild who—no doubt with significant financial backing from her banking family—wanted to create a French ski resort that would rival glitzy St Moritz. Its development began just after the First World War with the Mont Arbois ski area and Palaces de Neiges hotel quickly attracting members of the aristocracy, celebrities and wealthy individuals from the world of finance. Nowadays it competes with Courchevel for the attention of well-heeled Parisians and international jetsetters.
A world apart
Its roots, though, are as a medieval farming village. And for all its oppulence, there is an authentic look to the place with cobbled streets, traditional architecture and a quaint, colourful main square. It’s clear the town has chosen to concentrate on catering for the one percenters, so you won’t find any mass market hotels or multi-storey apartments here. And yet while that’s obviously artificial, it somehow gives it the vibe of a ‘real’ place, compared to some of France’s more purpose-built resorts. This is despite the wildly upmarket stores, gourmet restaurants, and the fact that it is pristine to an almost uncomfortable level. You get the feeling any shop space applicants would have to prove their ability to create glamourous enough window displays before they were accepted.
The skiing itself is good considering the time of year. Megève boasts access to over 325km of piste, with skiable links to St Gervais, Combloux and Le Giettaz. The slopes are mostly intermediate but there are plenty of options for touring and off-piste when the snow is good. We start early and stay local given the slushy conditions after a few hours in the strong sun, particularly enjoying the long and steeper runs off Mont Joly.
Our three days in resort feel like a lifetime and a world away from our busy lives. On the final afternoon we sit by the flowing river in the centre of the village in warm spring sunshine, reflecting on just how restorative this trip has been. Just over an hour from Geneva, Megève is a beautiful resort with great skiing, world-beating food and a lively après scene. It’s a great short break option for time-strapped skiers, as long as they’re not cash-strapped too. Whatever you do, don’t forget your Prada sunglasses.
Dining out
Aside from the short transfer time, one of our main reasons for choosing Megève was to sample some of its amazing restaurants. Here are three of the best we tried.
Lunch
Le Relais des Fermes
Nestled at the foot of the Rochebrune slopes and offering breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains, Le Relais des Fermes offers good quality, traditional Savoyard dishes. The sun-soaked terrace and welcoming staff made it the perfect place to relax after a long morning skiing. Look out for the daily grilled specials and the sardine starter with lemon butter toast.
Dinner
L’Alpaga
This Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant is a treat. The young chef Alexandre Baule focusses heavily on seasonal vegetables in his cooking. We ate at the Bistrot, which offers a taste of the Michelin star cuisine at a price more people can stomach. This is delicate cuisine. Baule’s use of small hints of flavours takes you on a journey with each dish and was the source of much conversation around our table. A real food experience.
Dinner
La Fermes de Marie
We couldn’t resist an evening meal at our hotel. The restaurant is open for bookings for non-guests and more than deserved to make this list. The dining area successfully combines its impressive architecture with a warm and intimate feel—the perfect setting to enjoy the food, a refined and elegant take on traditional Savoie fare. While the quality is exquisite, the quantities are still generous. The fillet steak with jus was outstanding, as was the sea bass with chestnut and braised butternut squash.
Snow how
Our trip
Jim and his friends were hosted by Megève Tourism. The excellent value Mont Blanc Evasion lift pass, which includes access to Megève, St Gervais, St Nicolas de Véroce, Combloux, La Giettaz and Les Contamines/Hauteluce, is just £55 per day or £276 for a week.
Find information on the resort, ideas for activities, places to eat and more at megeve-tourisme.fr
Getting there
Megève is just over an hour from Geneva airport. easyJet offers regular flights from Bristol and other UK airports, from £100 return.
Where to stay
The amazing Les Fermes de Marie hotel offers a true 5* service, restaurant and spa. Rooms cost from £480 per night during the period Jim & friends stayed in March. Chalets are also available for larger groups.
